Day 5 - Experiencing More of Dawson

We were up early and off on an excursion along the Dempster Highway to Tombstone Territorial Park.  We were really excited about this trip, because it will take us into the Arctic Tundra, something we really wanted to see and experience.

The Dempster Highway is unique in that it is the only all-weather road that crosses the Arctic Circle.  The road is primarily a gravel berm sitting on top of the permafrost.  The thickness of the gravel varies from 3 ft. up to almost 8 ft. in some areas, and without this gravel insulation, the permafrost would thaw and the road would sink into the ground.  The Dempster Highway is some 460 miles long, extending from just outside Dawson, across the Arctic Circle, and on to Inuvik (during the summer months).  In the winter it extends an additional 121 miles to Tuktoyaktuk (a First Nation word meaning "It is what it is"), by using frozen portions of the Mackenzie River delta as an ice road.  Tombstone Territorial Park, which is a 2000 sq. mile portion of the First Nation people's land, was just recently (in year 2000) designated as a protected environment (similar to our National Parks), and is located at about mile 50 of the Dempster Highway.

Dempster Highway sign-post

Map showing the Dempster Highway route

Driving on the gravel berm was interesting,
lots of ups and downs - and dust

The First Nation word on this sign means
"Within the Land of Rugged Peaks"

Our first look at Tombstone Territorial Park

We drove a short distance into the park, and then stopped at the . . .

Tombstone Interpretative Center

We were warmly greeted by one of the Rangers, who offered a hot cup of tea made from some of the plants and flowers that grow on the Tundra . . .

The tea was warm and delicious

Signs gave us information about the mountains that surround this area . . .

And warned us about some of the wildlife we might encounter . . .

Our guide did have his bear spray with him.  

As we drove further into the park, we were told to notice how small and sparse the trees are.  This is due to the permafrost which prevents the trees from sending down long roots to reach water and nutrients.  These trees can be as much as 300 years old, but since they can't grow normally, they look like baby trees.  As we drove further into the tundra, there were fewer and fewer trees, until they disappeared completely.

More information about Tombstone

The peak in the far distant center of this photo
which looks like a tombstone gave the park it's name 

Another view of Tombstone Mountain in the distance

And another view of the mountain behind us

We drove further into the park to see more of the tundra up close and personal.

Yes, there were still a few patches of snow on the ground

The North Klondike River runs through the park

Love this picture with the clouds reflected in the river
and the wildflowers in bloom - Fireweed of course,
plus the wispy delicate pinkish flowers are called Arctic Foxtail

A better picture of the cloud reflecting in the river

A closer look at the Arctic Foxtail

And here are some closer looks at the tundra with the permafrost barely under the surface . . .

Arctic Tundra

We were not allowed to touch or walk on the tundra or the permafrost because of the delicate nature of the ecosystem. Stepping on it can cause hundreds of years worth of damage.  So we were very careful to stay on the road.  However, there was one tiny little path that we were allowed to step on . . .

Standing on the tundra/permafrost

When you step on the tundra, the water from the permafrost shows.  It's slushy and really quite spongy.  I'm sad that you can't see it better in the photo above.

As we drove out of the park, we were treated to this interesting sight . . .

Mr. Fox scampering through the tundra with his lunch

And this . . .

Beaver Dam.  Sadly, Mr. Beaver didn't appear to be home

Back in Dawson City, we boarded the Klondike Spirit Riverboat for a cruise on the river.

Klondike Spirit

The paddle wheels on this river boat are encased on each side, so I'm not sure if they are actually propelling the boat or if there is an engine hidden somewhere . . .

Paddle Wheel on the side

View behind us as we're heading up-river

On the opposite shore is a First Nation village

And upstream on the Dawson City side is a Steamboat Graveyard

Steamboat Graveyard

Something I forgot to mention earlier in this post.  Today as we were driving on the Dempster Highway, our guide pointed out that some of the leaves on the Aspen trees along the road were turned over - the under-side of the leaves were showing.  I tried to take a photo, but out of a moving vehicle just doesn't work. Anyway, he said that this is an indicator that rain is coming within 24 hours.   Well, now it's later that same day and we're on the Riverboat and . . . .

It's raining!  Who knew trees were that smart?
Huge drops are falling on the river  now as we're passing more of Dawson City

Soon we came to where the Yukon and Klondike Rivers join -
The Yukon is clear, the Klondike is murky due to run-off from the glaciers

Back on shore, we finished off the night at Diamond Tooth Gertie's for some frontier-style entertainment. Diamond Tooth Gertie's is a combination restaurant, bar, casino, and show featuring high-stepping Gold Rush girls.  Fun!

Diamond Tooth Gertie's

And here's Gertie!  She had an amazing singing voice!

Here's the gorgeous Gold Rush girls - hard to get a good
photo when they are kicking and dancing so fast!  

There are three shows per night, the first one family-friendly, the second a little more "rough", and the third one?  Watch out!  Between each show Gertie and her girls come out and talk to the audience and pose for photos.  It was fun to learn where they are from and what their future plans are.  The girls are college students from all over the USA and Canada, who spend their summers up here.  We stayed for the first two shows, then decided to call it a night.  Tomorrow we fly to Fairbanks - finally we will get our first look at Alaska!  Can't wait!